A key policy here at Mokosh is to keep our skin care range streamlined. We prefer to refine and improve our existing core range, so that you can invest in just a few, well chosen, multi-tasking products that deliver a high concentration of potent nutrients to your skin.
So to introduce two new products to our range is quite the event for us - and we have done so only because these products offer benefits that are not available in our core range. In recent years, new research has led to the discovery of some botanicals with potent anti-ageing benefits - and we wanted to bring these to our customers in our own unique way.
Here we describe why we were so keen to introduce the anti-ageing botanical extract, bakuchiol (pronounced ba-koo-chee-ol) into our range. Bakuchiol has been shown to have a range of anti-ageing effects on the skin. If you don’t know much about bakuchiol, read on to find out why it might be the ideal product to add to your beauty routine.
Where does Bakuchiol come from?
Bakuchiol is a compound found in a number of plants, and is most commonly extracted from Psoralea corylifolia, which is native to India and Sri Lanka. All parts of this plant have been used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine to treat various skin diseases (1). Recently, the purified bakuchiol extract was found to have remarkable properties.
What can Bakuchiol do for my Skin?
Most people have heard of the anti-ageing and anti-acne benefits of retinol and retinoids. A major drawback of retinoids is that they often cause skin irritation, redness and peeling, and can increase the sensitivity of skin to sunlight. In addition, some retinoids are unsafe to use during pregnancy.
Although bakuchiol and retinol are very different molecules, a study carried out in 2014 showed that bakuchiol uses the same molecular pathway as retinol to stimulate very similar anti-ageing changes in the skin (3). Later, a clinical trial comparing bakuchiol and retinol showed that each resulted in in similar improvements in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, but the bakuchiol-treated group experienced less stinging and scaling than the group using retinol (4). A later study showed that bakuchiol was well tolerated by people with sensitive skin, and confirmed the same anti-ageing benefits to the skin in this group (5).
The main anti-ageing benefits of bakuchiol include increased collagen production, reduced hyperpigmentation and increased skin brightness, reduced roughness and dryness, increased skin firmness and skin tone, improved elasticity, and reduced the prominence of fine lines and wrinkles.
Bakuchiol is also considered to have effects comparable to retinol in the treatment of acne. In addition to reducing the severity of acne, bakuchiol was shown to inhibit the growth of acne-causing microorganisms, whereas retinoids do not (6).
How Safe is Bakuchiol?
To date there are no known contraindications to the use of bakuchiol. It is considered by most to be safe for use during pregnancy, although we recommend consulting your health professional for advice if you wish to use it while pregnant. However, an allergic or sensitivity reaction can occur with any substance, so we always suggest performing a patch test before trying any new product.
How is Mokosh Bakuchiol Revival Serum Formulated?
We have kept our Bakuchiol Revival Serum as simple and as light as possible. We have formulated it with our finest, most readily absorbed and nourishing certified organic oils. The serum is abundant in essential fatty acids that can rebuild and restore the skin’s barrier function, and rich in antioxidants to deliver additional anti-ageing benefits. To this we have added bakuchiol at a concentration of 1%. Like all our products, it is undiluted with water, so that the active ingredient, bakuchiol, will stay active for longer. All ingredients, including the bakuchiol, are certified organic. No essential oils are added - we wanted to keep this product as gentle and safe for sensitive skins as possible. It can be used by men and women (of course!).
How do I fit Bakuchiol Revival Serum into my Skin Care Routine?
As with any new product, we suggest performing a patch test on your arm or out of sight on your neck, and observe the skin for 24 hours for any sign of irritation before applying to the face.
If all is well, we recommend mixing one drop of the Serum with your normal moisturiser, so that it is diluted during your first use. Gradually increase the amount of bakuchiol you apply until you are using it alone. Some people with sensitive skin experience mild stinging when they first start using bakuchiol. For this reason, we recommend a slow start.
Our Bakuchiol Revival Serum can be applied under your normal moisturiser or, if you prefer a very light coverage, it can be used as your sole moisturiser. 3-4 drops applied to lightly moist skin will be sufficient for the whole face. Focus on applying it to the outer corner of your eyes where wrinkles easily form, as well as the thin skin around the eyes. Then lightly massage over the rest of your face.
How Long Will it Take to see a Difference in my Skin?
The studies testing the effects of bakuchiol ran for 12 weeks. Slight measurable changes were evident at 4 weeks, but greater changes were seen by 8 weeks, with additional improvement by 12 weeks of daily application. Any change will be very gradual, and it’s important to apply it consistently.
We hope you enjoy using this beautiful, light, readily absorbed and potent serum as much as we do! Please don't hesitate to get in touch by email if you have any questions about our Bakuchiol Revival Serum.
(1) Khushboo, P.S. et al (2010) Psoralea corylifolia Linn.—“Kushtanashini” Pharmacogn. Rev. 4:69-76
(2) Zasada, M. and Budzisz, E. Retinoids: Active Molecules influencing skin structure formation in Cosmetic and Dermatological Treatments (2019) Postepy Dermatol. Alergol. 36: 392-397.
(3) Chaudhuri, R. (2014) Bakuchiol: A Retinol-Like Functional Compound Revealed by Gene Expression Profiling and Clinically Proven to have Anti-Aging Effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. January 2014.
(4) Dhaliwal, S. (2018) Prospective, Randomised, Double-Blind Assessment of Topical Bakuchiol and Retinol for Facial Photo-Ageing. British Journal of Dermatology 180:253-254
(5) Draelos, Z.D. et al (2020) Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin J. Drugs Dermatol. 19:1181-1183.
(6) Chaudhuri, R. and Marchio, F. (2011) Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics and Toiletries 126: 502-510