All our products, except the soaps, contain 100% certified organic ingredients - our products are virtually unique in being able to achieve this level, simply because we use no chemically altered ingredients in our products. Each ingredient is certified organic, and in its natural, chemically unaltered form.
The Australian Standard
When we decided to go through the process of obtaining organic certification for our products back in 2012, things were quite simple. There was one standard to go by in Australia - the National Standard for Organic and Biodynamic Produce (1).
There are 5 certifying bodies approved by the Australian government to certify businesses to the Australian Standard (2), including NASAA, which certifies our products.
To be labeled ‘certified organic’ to the Australian Standard, a product must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic ingredients, and any remaining non-certified ingredients must be of agricultural origin, or an ingredient that is approved by the certifying body. This is the export standard agreed on between Australia and our trading partners, and applies to all organic products including food and cosmetics.
All our products, except the soaps, contain 100% certified organic ingredients - our products are virtually unique in being able to achieve this level, simply because we use no chemically altered ingredients in our products. Each ingredient is certified organic, and in its natural, chemically unaltered form.
There is also a 70% standard - where a product contains between 70-95% certified organic ingredients. Such a product can not be labeled ‘certified organic’, but may be ‘approved’ by the certifying body. An example of this would be our soaps. Because soaps must be made using lye, which is not an organic ingredient, they do not reach the 95% certified organic minimum. Our soaps contain between 70-95% certified organic ingredients, and so they are considered ‘approved’ by our certifying body, but can not be called ‘certified organic’.
Most cosmetics don’t meet the 95% standard
Most skin care products contain a significant percentage of ingredients that are chemically altered from their natural state, and therefore, under the Australian Standard can not be called ‘certified organic’. For example, coconut oil can be ‘certified organic’ if it is extracted from the coconut using physical methods. It is effectively the same substance that was in the coconut.
However, if coconut oil is used to manufacture an emulsifier (a detergent-like molecule that must be added to water-containing moisturisers), it must undergo a series of chemical reactions with other substances to create that ingredient. Although the coconut oil may have originally been certified organic, it is no longer in its natural form, and therefore, under the Australian Standard, the emulsifier cannot be called ‘certified organic’.
Because emulsifiers and other synthetic ingredients are added to virtually all skin care, the 95% standard for certified organic cosmetics was out of reach for many skin care manufacturers.
Not any more!
Introducing COSMOS - an organic standard JUST for cosmetics
In 2010, the Cosmos (COSMetic Organic and Natural Standard) Standard was created by agreement between five European organic certifiers, each with different standards. Together, they agreed on a new standard for cosmetics. They argued that cosmetics are a special case, and should not be held to the stringent rules for organic certification to which food and other products are held. The new standard, which was introduced to Australia in 2018, has far less rigid standards for both its definition of ‘certified organic’ and for its required certified organic content than Australian and other national standards. This allows many more brands to make the ‘certified organic’ claim. Currently around 85% of certified organic brands are certified under the COSMOS standard (3).
So what is the COSMOS standard that so many skin care brands have switched to?
COSMOS has two standards: Cosmos Certified Organic, and Cosmos Natural (4). COSMOS Certified Organic includes certified organic ingredients, while COSMOS Natural may not contain any certified organic ingredients.
Here are the main differences between a COSMOS Certified Organic cosmetic and one certified to the Australian Standard:
- A product may contain as little as 20% total organic ingredients (compared to 95% minimum for the Australian Standard). The percentage of organic ingredients must be included on the label.
- Rinse-off products may contain as little as 10% total organic ingredients (compared to 95% minimum for the Australian Standard).
- The total of physically derived ingredients (ie unaltered from their natural state) must be at least 95% organic, however physically-derived ingredients may still comprise as little as 20% of the finished product.
- Chemically processed agricultural ingredients, like an emulsifier made with certified organic coconut oil that has undergone a range of chemical reactions, may be counted as part of the certified organic content. These chemically altered ingredients may not be counted towards the organic content in the Australian Standard.
- Ingredients of ‘non natural origin’ may be used - eg solvents and preservatives of petrochemical origin. Petrochemical-derived ingredients are not permitted under the Australian Standard.
- Petrochemical moieties may make up as much as 2% of the finished product.
- Preservatives and denaturing agents of petrochemical origin - eg benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid - do not contribute to the 2% maximum for ingredients of petrochemical origin, which means the finished product may contain more than 2% ingredients with petrochemical input.
- The word ‘organic’ may be used in the title of the product, e.g. ‘organic massage oil’ only if it contains more than 95% certified organic ingredients. But note, it may still contain preservatives or other ingredients of petrochemical origin.
What does it all mean?
Clearly, the COSMOS certified organic standard is far less stringent than the Australian National Standard. I believe that most consumers are unaware of this significant change in organic cosmetics since the introduction of the COSMOS standard into Australia in 2018.
Most consumers who see a logo stating ‘certified organic’ will not look further - a brand or product with ‘certified organic’ status is sufficient assurance for what they are buying. Some may not be fully aware that the COSMOS certified organic logo may mean a low organic percentage, the inclusion of synthetic ingredients in the organic content, and possible petrochemical input.
It’s important to remember that organic standards are arbitrary - they’re created by people, there is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’. However, I believe that we should be aware that COSMOS certified organic skin care is not held to the same standard as other certified organic products, like food, or skin care certified to the Australian Standard, like Mokosh.
When it comes to cosmetics, the term ‘certified organic’ now means a range of standards. As a rule of thumb for life, we recommend checking the ingredients label of everything that goes in and on your body.
REFERENCES
(1) The National Standard for Organic and Biodynamic Produce
(2) Organic Approved Certifying Bodies
(3) COSMOS Wikipedia
(4) COSMOS Standard
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