Module 7: Caring for Oily & Acne Prone Skin

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Skin characteristics

Oily Skin

Typified by...

  1. Shininess or wetness on the face
  2. Acne, blackheads
  3. Visible or enlarged-looking pores.
  4. Make-up wearing off easily or "sliding around"

Acne-prone skin

Typified by:

  1. Visible whiteheads, blackheads, or enlarged-looking pores
  2. Acne scarring
  3. Pain, soreness
  4. Inflammation, swelling, redness
  5. Oiliness

Causes 

What causes oily skin?

Oily skin is caused by an over-production of sebum by the sebaceous glands.

Oily skin develops during adolescence when hormones trigger sebum production. 

What causes acne?

Acne develops when the sebaceous gland opening, or pore, becomes blocked.

Pore blockage can be caused by an over-production of sebum, abnormal shedding of keratin, a build up of dead skin cells or an inflammatory event. 

Bacteria may invade the pore, and inflammation, pain and redness follow. 

Sebum in oily skin is usually deficient in linoleic acid.

Low linoleic acid weakens the skin's barrier, makes sebum thicker, and increases keratin production.

All these factors increase the risk of acne. 

Oxidation of squalene in sebum also triggers acne. This can be caused by exposure to UV light, cigarette smoke, ozone and pollution.

Lifestyle factors are important:

  • High sugar (high glycaemic) diets are thought to increase the incidence of acne.
  • Stress can also be a trigger.

Acne & Age

Acne is most common during adolescence, when sebum production increases.

Sebum production gradually slows with age, however acne may continue into adulthood. 

Adult acne is also caused by pore blockage, and may be triggered by hormonal changes (menstrual cycle, pregnancy) that increase sebum production.

Low levels of linoleic acid in the skin can weaken the skin's barrier and trigger a breakout

Skin Needs

Avoid products and practices that damage the skin’s barrier and allow the entry of microorganisms.

Keep the skin clean, nourished and moisturised with skin care products that replenish levels of linoleic acid and deliver abundant antioxidants.

A calming, balancing routine will also minimise inflammation.

Avoid

  • Soap and detergent cleansers
  • Harsh scrubs
  • Common irritants like fragrances and preservatives
  • Triggers like cigarette smoke, pollution, etc.
  • Overwashing or under moisturising
  • Touching the face or affected area

Embrace

  • Gentle but deep cleansing, like oil cleansing
  • Gentle scrubs, masks, and treatments
  • Moisturisers rich in linoleic acid and antioxidants
  • Toxin-free, fragrance-free, essential oil-free skin care
  • Nutrient-rich & rebalancing products
  • Organic, unrefined & natural ingredients

Customer Profiles

You may be approached by customers including...

      • Youth/teens going through puberty
      • Those with acne or oiliness caused by menstrual cycle, pregnancy
      •  Adult acne triggered by routine or lifestyle factors

Routine

1. Cleanse

Our detergent-free Cleansing Oil will deep cleanse the skin and pores whilst replenishing the skin's barrier. It leaves skin soft and hydrated, and fully prepared for our nutritious moisturisers to follow.

2. Double cleanse/mask

Our Facial Cleanser, Exfoliator & Mask cleanses skin without detergents and gently exfoliates cell debris. May be used once daily, though some oily skins prefer to use twice daily. Very gentle massage is vital.

3. Tone

Our Pure Hydrosol Toner has anti-inflammatory properties and a pH of around 5, our gentle toner helps restore the skin’s acid mantle. It also makes the ideal aqueous base on which to apply our water-free moisturisers.

4. Nourish 

Elderberry & Chia Seed Beauty SerumThis light oil blend should be the primary moisturiser for oily skin. It is rich in linoleic acid and antioxidants, and readily absorbed. Once or twice daily. 

Bakuchiol Revival SerumBakuchiol has a similar bioactivity to retinol, and can help acne-prone skin. It has been shown to reduce inflammation and slow the growth of acne-causing bacteria. It can be used once daily as a light moisturiser.

5. Protect

Pure Face & Body Cream: When extra moisturisation is needed, this light, soothing cream may be used very sparingly, and only as needed.  

Common Queries

Q: Won't oil cleansers just make my skin oilier?!

A pure cleansing oil that is free of detergents, fragrance and preservatives (like ours), can be greatly beneficial for oily skin types.

Our oil cleanser is rich in linoleic acid, helping restore the skin's barrier. It is also rich in antioxidants including beta-carotene and vitamin E, which can help calm the skin and reduce the squalene oxidation that triggers inflammation. 

Our cleansing oil binds with oils on your skin, lifting off excess sebum, dirt and pollutants without harming the skin’s barrier or stripping the skin's lipid barrier.

Detergent-based cleansers can deplete the skin's important barrier. This can leave a squeaky clean feeling at first... but can ultimately lead to the overproduction of sebum and even oilier skin.

Q: I have persistent, cystic acne and scarring - is there a natural solution?

When acne is severe, it’s important to seek medical attention to reduce the risk of permanent scarring.  

There are a range of treatments available through your GP or dermatologist which can reduce the hyperactivity of sebaceous glands, cut down sebum output, and limit the severity of acne.

Q: Can the Bakuchiol Revival Serum work as an acne spot treatment?

Studies have shown that Bakuchiol can reduce the severity of acne, however it takes time to take effect. We recommend using it once a day as your moisturiser, alternating with Elderberry & Chia Seed Beauty Serum.

For a spot treatment, you can apply our Facial Cleanser, Exfoliator & Mask made up as a paste, and leave it on for a few hours or overnight. It can help calm and dry out acne spots.

Q: I have oily skin, do I still need to use moisturiser?

Applying an oil or cream to oily skin may seem counterintuitive. However, applying oils and creams rich in linoleic acid helps normalise sebum and reduce the risk of developing acne.

Our Bakuchiol Revival Serum and Elderberry & Chia Seed serums are very light, readily absorbed and rich in linoleic acid and antioxidants.

Next up: Caring for normal skin